Monday’s whispers: Accor offers Paris-Society which continues its development, Laurent Gardinier president of Relais & Châteaux, a promotion of anti-star MOFs, Antoine Petrus the return, Marc Veyrat at the Côte 2000, Amaury Bouhours fires all wood at Le Meurice, Adrien Trouilloud at Chambéry | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Accor buys Paris-Society which continues its development

Laurent de Gourcuff and Julien Chicoisne © GP

This is the economic-gourmand event, which has remained almost secret, of last week, even if our colleague Les Echos announced it on Wednesday evening for the first time: Accor, which has owned 38% of the capital of Paris-Society since 2017, has just acquire 100%. Laurent de Gourcuff’s company, which manages both festive restaurants (in Paris, Megève, Courchevel and Saint-Tropez) and events, has been valued at 330 million euros. Management remains under the responsibility of the same Laurent de Gourcuff, 46, who will continue to develop the group. Its singularity: betting on unique places, with exceptional locations and grandiose terraces, such as Mun dominating the Champs-Elysées, Bonnie in the heart of Paris, and above the Seine, Girafe facing the Eiffel Tower, Monsieur Bleu and Bambini at the Palais de Tokyo, Gigi above Avenue Montaigne and its counterpart in Courchevel at an altitude of more than 2,500 m, not forgetting Coco at the Opera and Maison Russe on Avenue Raymond Poincaré. We do not forget in passing nightclubs like Castel and projects in the hotel industry like the Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay in the Chevreuse valley or the Citadel of Vauban in Belle-Ile-en-Mer, these last two historical and prestigious elements bought from the Savry group of Private Hotels. Next step in the development of Paris-Society: a new wave Moroccan restaurant, Mima, at the top of the Institut du Monde Arabe (IMA). Planned opening: next December. And, always, under the gourmet responsibility of the group’s executive chef, Julien Chicoisne, a former Les Fermes de Marie with Nicolas Le Bec and Drugstore Publicis with Eric Frechon.

Laurent Gardinier President of Relais & Châteaux

Laurent Gardinier © Dominique Cabrelli

We announced it to you a few weeks ago: Laurent Gardinier, the only candidate to succeed Philippe Gombert, was elected by his peers to the presidency of Relais & Châteaux, during the very recent congress of the chain in Venice. At 55, this former Sciences Po, holder of a DEA at Dauphine, the youngest of three siblings, engaged in luxury restaurants and hotels (Taillevent, 120 de Taillevent, Crayères in Reims), also present in caviar (“Le Comptoir du Caviar”) without forgetting the orange plantations in Florida, obviously has the qualities required for such a position and the time to devote himself to it. His sense of gourmet diplomacy – he holds a position of vice-president at the Grandes Tables du Monde – could also do wonders to bring together two institutions, if not competitors, at least parallel, in an identical sector, that of gourmet luxury. Especially since its vice-president at Relais & Châteaux, who succeeds Olivier Roellinger in this position, is none other than the 3-star Franco-Italian-Argentinian Mauro Colagreco, elected best chef in the world by the 50 best, and owner of three organically grown gardens, in Menton and the surrounding area, intended to supply its thirty establishments with fine vegetables and herbs, which will continue to insist on the eco-sustainability of the chain’s restaurants. Laurent Gardinier’s mission: restore the somewhat tarnished image of what was once called ” the most beautiful channel in the world » and which, for a decade, has been a tad in the background.

Mauro Colagreco and the pink onion from Menton © GP

MOF 2022: the promotion of anti-stars

Tom Meyer © GP

They are eight chefs, this year, to win the prestigious title of MOF for 2022. They are, in alphabetical order: David Alessandria, from Bernex (Haute-Savoie), chef at La Prairie in Clarens (Switzerland) , David Boyer, born in Saint-Junien in Haute-Vienne, who once had a star at Château de la Cazine in Creuse, then at 110 de Taillevent, was executive chef of Anne-Sophie Pic, and who is now caterer and chef at home in Limoges, Louis-Edouard Gachet, formerly of the Chèvre d’Or in Eze and very recent executive chef of the Couvent des Minimes in Mane in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, Guillaume Goupil, who was the chef starred from Baudelaire to Burgundy in Paris 8th, which became that of Stéphanie Le Quellec at the Stage in the same arrondissement, Yann Maget in Paris, sous-chef at Bristol, under the three-star guidance of Eric Frechon, Tom Meyer, young and brilliant Parisian chef of the restaurant Granite, within the Eclore group of Stéphane Manigold, Jérôme Schilling, two-star chef s at the Lalique restaurant at the Lafaurie-Peyraguey castle, and finally the Japanese Kenichiro Sekiya, chef at the Joël Robuchon castle restaurant in Tokyo. No spangled stars, but discreet and rigorous chefs, who worked hard for this very technical final which took place in Grenoble and saw the commitment of thirty competitors, under the critical gaze, in particular, of Alain Ducasse, Régis Marcon and Guillaume Gomez.

David Boyer © GP

Antoine Pétrus the return

Antoine Pétrus and his MOF medals © AE Thion

He had disappeared from our radar screens. Now he is preparing for his return. Antoine Pétrus, double MOF – sommelier in 2011, butler of the service in 2018 – had left Paris for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, then lived almost a year of silence. He had carried at arm’s length the restaurant Mère Germaine – doubled as a four-star hotel and a gourmet counter – which, despite its changes of chef, kept its star. He who we met at Lasserre, then at the Clarence, finally, with the Gardinier brothers (“ my relations with them were of filiation. I still love them”, he says), had joined the “Maisons et Terroirs de Provence” group, constituting a cellar of more than 20,000 bottles, with more than 1,500 references, opened three cellars (in Paris, Lourmarin and Brussels), supervised six wine estates from Condrieu to the Luberon, more than 120 ha, taking care of the group’s financial and administrative tasks, but also of communication and orientation. He is currently a consultant, whispers in the ear of the big bosses of possible acquisitions of vineyards in Provence and in the Rhone Valley, advises colleagues on the development of restaurant projects ranging from brasseries to three stars. He continues to make his own wine in Switzerland, in Martigny in Valais, and closely follows a micro-winery in the heart of Marseille. We should find him very soon on the left bank in Paris – if New York or Avignon do not retain him beforehand.

Marc Veyrat at the Coast 2000

Marc Veyrat © GP

We reported it to you the other week: Marc Veyrat, who has handed over the baton of his house in Manigod to his youngest Elise, is back in Megève. His new location: the Côte 2000 Rothschild chalet, located on the heights of Mont d’Arbois. The residence, managed by Benjamin Patou’s Moma Group, whose walls still belong to the Edmond Rotschild Heritage group, will offer a good-natured version of the cuisine of the great Marc under the name of “Rural by Marc Veyrat” like Porte Maillot in Paris, in the Palais des Congrès, as well as a more festive version in the afternoon, from 5 p.m. until the slopes close, under the sign of “Schuss by Marc Veyrat”. Finally, in the evening, from 7 p.m., it will present refined cuisine, but always Savoyard, in a subdued atmosphere, such as hotpot with truffle emulsion, white tomme du jour with black juice or fish and mountain lakes . Opening from December 15.

Amaury Bouhours pulls out all the stops at Le Meurice

Amaury Bouhours © GP

The hotel Meurice ? It had been somewhat forgotten in the sphere of the great restaurants of the capital, which now only open in the evening, alas. The house leader has changed, even though the signatory of the card is the same. Under the claw of Alain Ducasse, the young Amaury Bouhours, 33, thin as a spaghetti, is in charge of the stoves, having succeeded Jocelyn Herland, who has since left the Plaza Athénée. Le Meurice is always a slightly different place. The clientele is very “fashion week”, young and in keeping with the times. The kitchen ? Funny and in tune with the times, certainly Ducassian, with its enlightened tributes to tradition, but also its measured audacity, its hints of lightness, without omitting the ability to offer each dish in a vegan or vegan version. A celebratory meal here? It starts with a bang with the pretty amuse-bouche, like the ekohlrabi and geranium spuma, the crispy salsify tartlet, the smoked egg and caviar brioche, not forgetting the fried chicken leg crisps. There is also Renaud Sigrist’s N°3 Quiberon oyster with its gin granita, then root vegetables with pear, spruce, leaf juice, but also almost raw scallops, dipped in their juice, with leek, herring and andouille from Guéméné or, again, this recreated piece of classic bravery that constitutes the superb little hot pâté of partridge and foie gras, with its bitter salad. We will tell you about it very soon.

Adrien Trouilloud in Chambery

Adrien and Julie Trouilloud © DR

We had lost track of Adrien Trouilloud after his departure from Lasserre. This too discreet young Savoyard, who worked for the Ducasse group, notably at Rech avenue des Ternes, under the leadership of Jacques Maximin, returned to his native lands, opening, with his wife Julie, a generous restaurant called Pinson, where he offers his light version of traditional cuisine with exotic touches from elsewhere, from Italy or Lebanon. Thus, the baba ganoush with pomegranates, the parsley snails in shells with Colonnata bacon, the kebbé nayé of beef with grilled pine nuts and radishes or the roasted cauliflower with smoked paprika and halloumi before the Chartreuse Norwegian omelette and walnuts . A chef to rediscover…

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