EAT WELL IN PARIS #84 — Restaurants, grocery stores, wine shops, pastries, cocktail bars… Our food critic and our bar critic distribute the “Ts”. This week on the test bench, Vincennes! : Food y Vino, Physalis, Barto, Mây Bay and Julien Dechenaud.
Food and Wine q
Admittedly, it is a wine merchant, a delicatessen, a charcuterie specializing in Iberian pork. But there are also a few pleasant tables on the sidewalk, for a quick and very well done lunch outside. To start, fish rillettes, sardines in oil or smoked salmon and very fresh tzatziki, to fill up on omega-3s and marine flavors, allow you to appreciate the fine selection of preserves and smoked products from the establishment. . Enough to wait while the chicken in coconut milk and small gourmet vegetables or the rougail-sausages accompanied by a delicately spiced turmeric rice is warmed up. With the coffee, a delicious slice of lemon cake. The place is also ideal for a small aperitif on the terrace, a taste of good food that you can take home.
53, rue Robert-Giraudineau, 94 Vincennes | 01 43 28 71 05 | Tue to Sat 10.30am-7.30pm | Appetizers €9, salads €13.50, mains €12-13.50, desserts €6.50 | Vegetarian option.
After working for twenty years with their parents, fruit and vegetable merchants in the 12e, Philippine and Frédéric Kurtz have imagined the shop of their dreams: you can buy perfectly ripe figs, scented vinegar and a pretty ring adorned with a tourmaline. A lively place where everything has been carefully chosen by the brother and sister, and where hospitality and advice make the difference. No self-service; Frédéric chooses tomatoes adapted to a sauce or peaches which will work wonders in a crumble. On the shelves, we find the precious lobster oil made on the island of Groix (€9.80), spices from the Shira house (incomparable smoked paprika), pasta from Fabre, pine nuts from the South Ouest and other culinary treasures brought back from their travels. At the back of the shop, in a separate room, make way for stoneware tableware, artisanal scented candles, Pyrenean wind chimes and pretty little colorful jewels that are all gift ideas… for yourself or for others . Impossible to leave empty-handed!
95, rue de Fontenay, 94 Vincennes | 01 43 65 86 77 | Mon. 2pm-8pm, from Tue. to Sat. 9am-8pm.
Leaving the castle family visit hungry, we do the simplest and most consensual: Italian cuisine, everyone likes it, from 7 months to 107 years old! No reservations here, a bit of a wait alongside the Fiat Cinquecento oddly parked inside this spacious establishment, and here we are, seated outside, in the courtyard, at the far end of the restaurant. Pizzas, pasta, salads, there is a little bit of everything, and we get by well and quickly: honest Margherita (at the edge a bit massive), copious Pasta alla Norma with fried aubergines, tomato sauce, basil and grated dry ricotta, but dense and sugary pistachio tiramisu, even “poof-poof”. Enough to stall hungry teenagers! Loud and joyful, an unpretentious restaurant in the city center frequented by many locals. And for those who prefer to eat on the go, the house also has, 100 meters away, Panozzi, Italy in street food and paninis.
Without reservation. Open Mon. and Thu. 12pm-2.30pm and 7pm-10.30pm, Wed. 7pm-10.30pm, Fri. 12pm-2.30pm and 7pm-11pm, Sat. 12pm-3pm and 7pm-11pm, Sun. 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. Pizzas €11.50-18, pasta €17-24.
May Bay q
Well hidden, on the edge of Saint-Mandé, this Vietnamese restaurant whose poetic name means “the clouds that fly away” only cooks vegetarian and vegan dishes. Neither chicken nor fish sauce dot the traditional specialties, served in an energizing beige and apple-green setting. After crispy ravioli with well-scented vegetables and bánh cuốn (steamed rice pancakes) with black mushrooms and fried onions, the dishes of the day arrive. The peanut, tofu and egg sautéed pasta is light and tasty, even if we would like a little more fresh herbs on it, and the bo bun does well, with its carrots delicately marinated in vinegar. To finish, a steamed cake served lukewarm, intensely green thanks to the pandan leaves that flavor it, as surprising as it is delicious, to be dipped in sesame coconut cream. In addition to the menu, a semainier offers soups, vegetable purses and rice vermicelli salads, bringing variety to local regulars. An atypical address that will appeal to lovers of Vietnamese cuisine and those looking to vegetate their diet.
Mon. to Sat. 11.30am-2.30pm and 6.30pm-9.30pm | Lunch menu €20.90-22.50, dinner €31.50-35.50, single dishes €15.70 | Reservation recommended.
Julien Dechenaud s
It was in Vincennes, in 2012, that it all started for this young chocolatier-pastry chef, whose shop at 12e. It’s hard to pass without stopping in front of its appetizing chocolate shop where bars, chocolate candies, homemade ice cream and a short selection of cakes are sure to please. Cocoaphiles will undoubtedly fall in love with the 75% chocolate from Indonesia, which is incredibly velvety and soft, and for the homemade puff pastry praline bar, coated in a thin layer of crunchy chocolate. . Nice work also on the vegan milk chocolate, based on almond cake. On the pastry side, if there are only cookies, pies and flans, they are irreproachable, and all at the same price. From Thursday, the flan, good as a childhood memory, is on display, with a base of marzipan and honey, rivaling its Guanaja chocolate version. At the end of the week, the weekend pie comes, which mixes chocolate shortbread, hazelnut praline from Piedmont and creamy chocolate from Venezuela. Excellent value for money!
32, rue Robert-Giraudineau, 94 Vincennes | 01 45 73 94 02 | Mon. 11am-7.30pm, from Tue. to Sat. 9.30am-7.30pm | Individual cakes €5.50, tablets €8.50, pralines.